Moss collecting, packets and labelling

Chloroplasts in Plagiomnium moss cells. CC image by Fabelfroh

Technically, the normal advice about collecting applies - that you should have permission from the landowner. Realistically, they would probably look at you askance (though they're unlikely to say no, especially when you explain you are only after a little sample in the interests of science). But you really should ask if you want to collect at protected sites like nature reserves. However, the advantage of mosses is that there are many specimens to be found by foraging in public places - they're everywhere. The more habitats you look in, the larger the number of species you'll find. So try the tops of walls, between the cracks of pavements, in springs and at the sides of streams, in woodland, on heaths and in bogs, in lawns... there are many options even in the city. My car's not quite so bad, but one of my colleagues once brought me a specimen that was growing at the edge of his windscreen.

How to make packets for your specimens.

Before you go out collecting, you'll want to make some moss packets. I find you can't underestimate how many moss packets you'll want! Once you get your eye in you'll probably see a lot more species than you expect. I usually get confused at the variety, and because their features are so small, it's not always obvious in the field whether two specimens are different. So if in doubt, take a little sample of both. Also, you are bound to get stumped on identifying a few of them, so having more than you eventually intend to end up with is not a bad thing.

You can make your collecting moss packets from scrap paper. If the mosses are a bit damp, the paper will soak it up - it's better than using plastic bags. When you get home, open the packets for a while so they dry out (you don't want your specimens to go mouldy).

When I go collecting I keep my left pocket for empty packets and my right pocket for full packets... perhaps I'm easily confused but I find this a useful method. It doesn't stop me losing my pencil every five minutes. A pencil is better than a pen for writing on a damp packet.

Naturally you need to know where you got each moss. Rather than writing notes on soggy paper you're probably better off sticking just a number on the packet, and writing all the attendant details in your field notebook as you go along. Where are you on the map? What's the moss living on? Is it in damp shade or braving it out on a sunny wall top? What's growing round about? 

How much of each moss should you take? You need a tuft to a matchboxful.. not just a few threads, but don't go devastating a population. Obviously, don't take all of it if there's only a small amount! The BSBI code of conduct reassures you that "collecting small amounts of plant material for identification purposes, for private herbaria, for research or as voucher specimens is usually acceptable... indeed collecting is often necessary if botanical expertise is to be developed."

It's worth noting whether your sample comes from a cushiony mound or a straggling mat - different species have different forms and it'll help in your identification.  The capsules on their stalks (the sporophytes) can be very diagnostic, so if your moss has those, include some. Most mosses and liverworts can be easily removed from their substrate with your fingers. Ones on stone might sometimes benefit from a bit more persuasion - though more because it can be difficult to lever them off without breaking them, rather than because they're clinging on so tightly.

A moss sporophyte capsule. CC image by Des Callaghan.

When you examine the contents of your packets closely, you might find that what you thought was one species is actually a collection of several - a bonus.

When you've identified your specimens you'll want to put them in a nice new packet for presentation.
Traditionally this is the method bryologists use - the packets sit nicely behind each other in a narrow box, and you can order them taxonomically. If you want to be innovative that's honestly fine, though you will have to confront the combined weight of many many decades of bryologists and their beloved packets. Maybe it's time for something more creative though. It is the 21st century after all, and if you can present them more attractively you may pull in more people to be bryologists. You never know.

This is how I was taught to label them:

You can see I've got who collected and identified it in the top left corner.

The what of the Latin name is in the centre. You don't have to put the authority after it, but it's easy to find it out on the Natural History Museum's Dictionary of UK Species., where you can check you've got the most up-to-date name too.

In the top right hand corner is a number (starting M for mosses or L for liverworts) - again you might think this is overkill but if you want to use it, it's the official checklist number that the British Bryological Society use. You can download the spreadsheet from this page.

I've also added the Order because that would help me arrange my species taxonomically in their box.

On the bottom left you have the when  of the date it was collected.

In the bottom right corner is the where.

You can also add a note about the habitat or substrate, as I've done in the centre.

A Japanese moss garden. Very neat. CC image by Paul Mannix