Relaxing moths, and mould

I happened across this document this morning: How to make and use spreading boards for insects, by Alice Gray.

It's pretty ancient, but moth pinning isn't really one of those hi-tech 21st century things, so I think you might still find parts of it useful.

I've heard a couple of people bemoan their moths going mouldy - she uses some toxic-sounding chemical which was probably considered fine in the 1940s. But I think you might benefit from taking her advice about relaxing the moths - that only 24 hours in the relaxing chamber "should bring the driest specimen to a working condition." Prevention would be better than cure - so try to keep the humidity high for the minimum time, and then keep them dry after pinning.

That isn't tackling the mould issue if it already exists - but I've been trying to read up about it to find something that will work without gassing you in the process. I've read about using cloves / clove oil, so that might be something to try. 

She gives very detailed advice about pinning (you might even find it too detailed) but I did notice a few little insider tips such as:

"With the tweezers remove a specimen from the relaxing box, holding it firmly by the thorax. Blow on it gently from behind. If the wings flutter slightly, the specimen is soft enough to spread."

also that,  "When filled, the spreading board should be stored in a warm airy place while the specimens dry. If the specimens have been previously dried, and relaxed, this will require from two days to a week, depending upon temperature, humidity, and the size of the insects. If fresh specimens are being mounted, they will take about three weeks, skippers and large moths not less than four weeks. In extremely damp climates forced drying in a slow oven may sometimes be necessary. It is never advisable to remove specimens from the board on a rainy day."